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Главная » Модельеры » Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin

Пьер Карден считается пионером по выпуску коллекций готовой одежды, он активно разрабатывал именно направление прет-а-порте. Сотрудничая с французскими и немецкими торговыми фирмами он чувствовал, что именно массовой моде принадлежит будущее.

Пьер Карден родился в 1922 г. в Италии недалеко от Венеции (его настоящее имя Пьеро Кардино), но вырос во Франции, куда в 1925 г. переехала его семья, изучал архитектуру в Париже. Во время войны он работал во французском Красном кресте, затем на швейном предприятии в Виши, где шил женские костюмы. В 1944 г. П. Карден вернулся в Париж и устроился на работу в Дом «Пакэн», потом — «Скьяпарелли», познакомился с Ж. Кокто и К. Бераром. Вместе с Бераром в 1946 г. сделал костюмы для фильма Ж. Кок-то «Красавица и чудовище» (вышел в 1947 г.). В 1947 г. стал работать для К. Диора. С 1949 г. создавал костюмы для театра, в 1950 г. открыл собственное маленькое ателье, где делал костюмы и маски для театра, в том числе и костюм льва (для К. Диора) для знаменитого «Бала королей и королев», который устроил граф Э. де Бомон.

В 1951 г. показал первую коллекцию женских платьев и костюмов, состоявшую всего из 50 моделей, в 1954 г. открыл бутики «Адам» и «Ева». В 1958 г. П. Карден впервые предложил коллекцию в стиле «унисекс», включавшую и мужскую, и женскую одежду. Стиль его моделей 1950-х гг. принципиально не отличался от общего направления «нью лук» — форма моделей была структурной и четкой, он не увлекался декором, убирая лишние детали. Крой костюмов и пальто был свободным. Он предпочитал длинные жакеты-труакар с большими отложными воротниками, четкими деталями и крупными пуговицами. В 1958 г. Карден придумал силуэт «баллон» для пальто и платьев для коктейля. В 1959 г. он разработал коллекции женской готовой одежды под собственным именем для французского торгового дома «Printemps» и немецкого торгово годома «Herti». За это его исключили из Синдиката высокой моды, посчитав, что Карден нанес урон имиджу высокой моды. Однако время вскоре все расставило по своим местам — уже в 1960-е гг., когда высокая мода «вышла из моды», почти все кутюрье по примеру Кардена стали выпускать коллекции прет-а-порте. П. Карден внес огромный вклад в моду XX в., доказав, что современная мода — это прежде всего большой бизнес.

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